German Journeys

June 2002 found us traveling to Germany, and what a fabulously memorable journey it was...just like our trip to Denmark last year! We stayed in - and thoroughly enjoyed - vigorous Munich and took a couple of day-long tours along and around the Romantische Strasse ("Romantic Road") which brought us to fairy-tale castles (such as Hohenschwangau, pictured above), picturesque villages in the Bavarian Alps, an imposing fortress from the 11th century, and a fascinating medieval walled city.  Here are our favorite photos...and a few memories!

Munich, Germany's third largest city and the capital of Bavaria, is an architectural striking city.  Our first glimpses were of Marienplatz, the old town area, and the bustling Viktualienmarkt (outdoor food market).
 

I couldn't stop gazing at the gothic beauty of the Neues Rathaus (New Town Hall) and its enchanting glockenspiel, which - to my delight - played its carillon as accompaniment to the two levels of mechanical dancers soon after our arrival (this happens twice a day, three times in the summer).

We enjoyed one afternoon with a brew, a bratwurst, and the ever-present pretzel at the legendary Hofbrauhaus...one of the world's most famous (and at points during its long history - infamous) beer houses, founded as the royal brewery in 1598. 

We spent a lot of time strolling through Munich's lovely old town and  downtown area...with some shopping thrown in along the way!

The first of our day-long tours with Panorama/Grey Line (in their oh-so-comfy Mercedes busses) made its initial stop at Linderhof Palace, Bavarian King Ludwig II's "Hunting Lodge"...one of the 3 castles built by Ludwig and the only one which was completed.  That was quite a lodge...small by castle-standards but absolutely breathtaking inside and out, and an example of the King's admiration for the French palace of Versailles.

Our next stop was the charming Bavarian village of Oberammergau, famous for the whimsical and religious fresco murals painted on houses and buildings, its woodcarvers, and the Passion Play that has been presented every 10 years since 1634, when it was first staged as a plea for mercy during the Black Plague.

Then came the castle that I'd pictured in my mind as my mother read fairy-tales to me so long ago.  I actually saw it on a travel poster in the Munich airport the day of our arrival and immediately announced "We HAVE to go there!"  John pointed out that we didn't even know where it was (Germany is, after all, a rather good-sized country).  But I found it in a brochure for Grey Line Tours, and my dream castle became a reality in the Bavarian Alps just above the Austrian border. And it had a name...Neuschwanstein. 

We first caught sight of it perched in the mountains, with hang gliders soaring above.  I couldn't believe it was real; I thought its image was a product of my childhood imagination.  But there it was, one of the castles that Ludwig II built but never completed...with inspirations such as this, no wonder he's referred to as the "fairytale King"!

Also there, near the small village of Fussen, is Hohenschwangau Castle where Ludwig spent part of his childhood.
  
I'm afraid I can't share any photos from inside Neuschwanstein since cameras weren't allowed.  We didn't have time to take the tour of Hohenschwangau; that will await us on a future German journey.


What an incredibly beautiful area!

Our next day's tour again headed out along the Romantische Strasse, in another direction, and stopped first at Harburg Castle.  This was a large fortress, a military stronghold from the 11th century; so it's quite different from Ludwig's exquisite confections...but it's also quite impressive in its austerity.

Michael Jackson has called Harburg "the castle of my dreams", and he tried (unsuccessfully) to buy it. Ah well, we all have our fantasies...mine is enchanted Neuschwanstein; his is ascetic Harburg!

Our final stop was Rothenburg ob der Tauber...which has been traced back to the 10th century, with the town itself first dated from 1142.  It has been described as one of Europe's best preserved medieval walled cities...and it is magnificent!    

The eagle emblem on the gate in the wall was the mark of a free imperial city, and, as such, its history is captivating.

I could have wandered those unbelievably picturesque cobblestone streets for hours upon hours.  In fact, I told our tour guide to just leave me there and pick me up on their next trip (which was 3 days later). John, however, didn't agree with my decision...perhaps due to the cornucopia of tempting shops!
  

One of the many engaging stories of Rothenburg is known as the "Master Draught", referring to the 1631 salvation of the town from invasion during the Thirty Years War...by a mayor who consumed 3.25 liters of wine in one draught and, thus, won the bet and Rothenburg's freedom!  The "drunken burgermeister" is celebrated several times daily when panels on either side of the clock on the Councillor's Tavern (in the central square) open up to reveal the participants hefting those infamous tankards of wine!


One other memory of the town square:  a band was playing, and we were rather surprised to hear the melody of "Shenandoah" but decided perhaps the tune was taken from some old folk song.  Then we heard the unmistakable strains of "Ghost Riders in the Sky"; surely that wasn't an old German standby. Turns out the entertainers were a high school band touring Europe...from Texas!
 

Enthralling and intriguing Rothenburg was our last tour stop and our last German adventure, as well, since we flew home from Munich the next day.  Our memories are everlasting, though (joining those of our 2001 trip to Denmark); and we definitely plan to return to see more of this beautiful country!  Until then, I have my dreams....

Auf Wiedersehen!

Copyright © 2002 - 2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any way without our written permission.

Published -- June 26, 2002
Last Revision -- Sunday, 13-Aug-2006 03:38:00 GMT