Our journeys returned us to the Napa Valley...a location we've visited many times over the years as we witnessed its tremendous growth in fame and popularity. On this trip we stayed at The Old World Inn, a charming B&B in the town of Napa itself. The Inn is housed in a lovingly restored Victorian-style house (with many architectural influences) that was constructed in 1906 by a master builder as his private residence; other examples of his work may be seen in strolls around Napa.

Upon entering the Inn's reception area, the influence of Swedish artist Carl Larsson is immediately apparent in the use of color and unique embellishments. The first floor public rooms each have words of warm counsel stenciled on their walls, such as "Welcome Home, Romance Spoken Here". The parlor has overstuffed chairs comfortably arranged around the windows and fireplace, and an unfinished jigsaw puzzle awaits the next visitor who can't resist the challenge of positioning a couple of pieces. Classical music is heard in the background as guests mingle during the many opportunities the Inn offers to eat, drink, and converse. There are two guest rooms downstairs; one is The Stockholm, which includes a private spa. Upstairs there are 6 rooms leading down the graceful arched hallway (painted with playful vines that twist between and around the doorways). At the end of the hall is an exquisite etched glass window depicting the Inn. We stayed in The Birch, a cozy blue and white room filled with sunshine. Although the room and bath were smaller than some of our other accommodations (this is a 90 year old house, after all), they were comfy and homey. A carafe of wine awaited us; the bed was covered with a snugly comforter; and the bath contained the antique fixtures that are copied as reproductions in many newer B&Bs. French doors overlooked the inviting spa provided for guests' usage, and squirrels romped (and pitched an occasional walnut onto the roof) from their perch in the stately trees that encircle the Inn. Speaking of furry creatures, the Inn has a sociable, purring cat named Kenya. Even though this affectionate kitty is mentioned in some B&B guidebooks as the resident feline, she apparently isn't allowed inside. There were a couple of times when Kenya "somehow" appeared in the parlor (only to be escorted back out by one of the innkeepers) after we came through the back door. We were assured, however, by a couple from Taos that Kenya is well-acquainted with the downstairs guest room that has an outside door...and spent quite a bit of time curled up contentedly on their bed!

The Birch is at the back of the Inn, which helped reduce the noise from the bustling thoroughfare on which The Old World is located. If you live on a busy street, you probably won't notice; we don't....so we did! The second night we turned on the air conditioner, which masked the din; but that's probably not feasible during winter months. So if the noise level could be a distraction, be sure to request a room toward the back of the Inn.

Now on to the food and drink! A tasty buffet breakfast is served in the dining room each morning; this consists of breads, fruits, a hot entree such as crepes or frittata, juice, and coffee. Later, afternoon tea is laid out with a variety of homemade cookies. Evening brings a tempting spread of hors d'ouevres including spreads of salmon, herbed cheese and eggplant; assorted cheeses; bread and crackers...all accompanied, of course, by Napa Valley wines! This is the time when everyone gathers to enjoy the munchies and make their plans for the evening. The Inn has books of menus from area restaurants, and the staff is always available to offer recommendations and make reservations. This is becoming more complex as renowned restaurants are building their reputations up and down the Valley; be forewarned, some of the most well-known require reservations weeks in advance. When you return from your dinner at one of these local delights, you'll find coffee, tea, and tantalizing deserts awaiting...so you can graze your way from morning 'till night at the Old World!!

I'm inserting a personal note here: a B&B (or any inn, lodge, or hotel for that matter), shouldn't be expected to seem "exactly like home"; in fact, part of the allure of travel is experiencing places that are different. Therefore, let's hope there aren't many travelers like the disgruntled guest who demanded to check out and not pay for his guaranteed reservation because the bath had a hand-held shower fixture, not a "real shower". The staff of the Inn was very gracious and let him depart, leaving them with an vacant room for two nights (when it was probably too late to re-book at least the first night, if not both). I guess they see and hear and tolerate just about everything in the hospitality business...my compliments to the owner on her courteous handling of this situation!

Besides the acclaimed restaurants, there are many other diversions in the Napa Valley...including the Wine Train, bicycling, walking tours and the very popular hot air balloon excursions. There's an attractive plaza in a revitalized area in downtown Napa and a particularly pleasant factory outlet market place nearby, along with a variety of shopping opportunities scattered throughout the Valley. You'll find a lot of local products, many having something to do with food and wine...the commodities of the area.

Now, about that wine!! As I mentioned at the beginning of this article, we've seen many changes in the area during the years we've been journeying there. Obviously, fame brings crowds...during week-ends, especially in the summer, it's not unusual to encounter wall-to-wall people in tasting rooms and on the main highway that winds through the Valley. Many of the wineries charge for tasting now (though the price often includes a souvenir glass or is deducted from any purchase). Of course, everyone wants to go to Napa but no one wants to be exposed to crowds...this brings about ironic conversations such as the one we overheard in which a tourist, at a tourist information center, resolutely stated that he didn't want to go to "touristy" wineries! Since we've been to the large, well-known wineries many times, we now concentrate on discovering the small spots that are tucked away, off of the most-traveled roads...they're all over the Valley; finding them just requires a bit of research, exploration and investigation. Due to the fact that we live close to several of California's lesser-known, more personalized, wine regions, we generally don't patronize the corporate-owned, pay-per-taste wineries in Napa. Our two exceptions are the Reserve Tasting Room at Beaulieu Vineyards (BV's standard wines are served in the separate, complimentary tasting area), and Mumm Champagne's light and airy facility (which is, itself, off of the main route). It's totally up to the traveler, of course, to decide which type of winery is preferable.....maybe even a mixture to compare the differences. There's quite definitely something to suit every inclination in the Napa Valley, and a drive through the lovely countryside makes the expedition all the more enjoyable!

Whatever your taste in wine (from Sauvignon Blanc to Merlot, Riesling to Zin, or any one of several styles of Cab), you'll find an excellent vintage in Napa; and The Old World Inn is an appealing home base for your quest. You can reach the innkeepers at 707-257-0112 for more details and reservations.
You may also take a peek at a more recent (Feb. 2000) "Jan's Journeys" visit to the Napa Valley with our article about the delightful Maison Fleurie Bed & Breakfast...and our dinner at the acclaimed French Laundry restaurant...at:
http://www.jans-journeys.com/fleurie.  CHEERS!!

Copyright © 1996 - 2008: Jan Hight
All photos are the property of Jan & John Hight and may not be copied or used in any way without our written permission.

Published -- December 8, 1996
Last Revision -- Sunday, 13-Aug-2006 03:23:29 GMT